The picture above shows how the hardware should be arranged at the forwardmost mounting point. Looking down into the bag at the mounting point that is located at the front of the bag. This fastener uses an aluminum spacer and two washers on the inside of the bag and a third washer on the outside (painted side) of the bag not seen in this picture. Notice that there is one washer that goes on before the aluminum spacer and another after the aluminum washer. Both with the rubber facing the woofer mount.

When screwing the mount in place it is easiest to start with the front mounting point and then move on to the remaining 6 mounting points in the rear one at a time. If you have a pick tool with a 1/8" shaft at your disposal it makes finding the holes in the woofer mount and lining everything up a little easier. This can also be done without a pick tool. In either case you want to get all of the screws started and then tighten it all down evenly. Afterwards use a flashlight to make sure that the gasket around the grill has made a complete seal all the way around the grill opening. If there are any unexpected gaps, remove the mount and add a second layer of gasket to the problem area. As long as the bag was cut correctly this should not be a required step.  

STEP 12

Time to Tune

Very Important Settings!

In order to get the most out of your subwoofer system and not void the warranty on Velocity subwoofers the following settings must be applied. Failure to follow these instructions will lead to a poor performing system and quickly lead to overheating the voice coil. 

• Amplifier crossover must be set to HighPass (not LowPass) at 45hz.
• Lowpass. Optionally you can use a DSR1 sound processor to LowPass the subwoofers at 400hz. A LowPass crossover is optional and not required. The Velocity subwoofers are engineered to naturally roll off at higher frequencies all on their own. 
• Bike's radio must be flashed, or a DSR1 processor must be used with an American Hard Bag tune (free and available here). 
• Do not add any bass boost using the radio tone controls, EQ, or an external DSP. Allow the woofers to take advantage of their natural response. 
• Set amplifier sensitivity (gain) to minimum on subwoofer channels and tune the entire rest of the system. This includes gain, EQ, and phase.
• Only after the rest of the system has been optimized and screaming loud then set the subwoofer sensitivity (gain) to match and compliment the other speakers. 

Phase Matching Subwoofers

There are two kinds of phase with regards to speakers. Electrical phase, which is how the speakers are wired (positive and negative), and then there is Acoustic phase. Acoustic phase is the direction the cone is actually moving in relation to other speakers in the system in the real world and in real time. The DSR1 has a magical feature that allows you to change (invert) the phase of any speaker in the system instantly. The cool thing is that you don't have to have any special equipment other than the DSR1 to optimize phase and make your system come to life. Simply invert the speaker phase of the subwoofers and lid speakers and see what combination sounds the best. 

Above is a screenshot of the phase feature on the DSR1 app

• The red finger is pointing towards the channel being adjusted. 
• The blue finger is pointing towards the state of phase (in phase).
• The yellow finger is pointing to the phase after switching to out of phase.
• The slider in the middle is a fine adjustment that should only be used by advanced users. It's not necessary to use the fine adjustment to get bass. The fine adjustment is more for adjusting high frequencies.

You can find the phase shift feature on the "Time Alignment" tab in "Advanced Tune".   

Always start by phase matching the subwoofers to your lid speakers. Velocity, Hertz, and Hybrid Technologies Lid speakers can share the same air space as the Velocity subwoofers without any ill effects. We made sure to engineer these so that they play well in a saddlebag as an enclosure and with those lid speakers.

Why Do I Need to Mess With Phase Alignment if I Wired the Entire System Correctly?

The reason for this is that small amounts of delay (milliseconds) are introduced into the audio signal whenever tone controls, EQ, or crossovers are used. These delays cause phase shifts and amount to the speakers becoming out of sync with each other. The good thing though is that these phase shifts are always equal from left to right since all tone, EQ, and crossover settings are always the same on a bike. So you don't have to worry about phase aligning from left to right. Only from pair to pair of speakers. When done correctly all speakers will be moving all in the same direction at the same time and the difference in bass output and sound quality over the entire spectrum is profound.

You can find a detailed article on how this is done here. 

Here is a list in order of where people generally go wrong.

1. Not setting the subwoofer crossovers as this article states. This isn't your car.
2. Not setting the subwoofer sensitivity last.
3. Not phase matching your subwoofers and not phase matching your lid speakers to your subwoofers.  
4. Not using our recommended lid speakers. We engineered the Velocity subwoofers to play especially well with many lid speakers but some lid speakers just don't have enough power or suspension to deal with the added pressures inside the bag. All Velocity R690 based lid speakers we sell work especially well. You can find all of our R690 based lid speaker solutions here.